Big outrage in some quarters of Portland over Heidi Yorkshire's review of the restaurant Ten 01 in this issue of Willamette Week. It read like a solidly written, well-defended review to me, but some people saw a sinister agenda ("It almost sounds like your ripping on your ex-boyfriend or something very personal" was a typical complaint).
Restaurant critics seem to get that reaction all the time...more than book critics, more than movie critics, more than just about anyone else. It can't be a difference of opinion (or, God forbid, a problem with the establishment); there has to be an underlying motive. And when all else fails, defend the poor picked-on restaurant rather than the poor picked-on diner: how could you be so mean?
Nancy Rommelmann, another acquaintance, told me once about a similar reaction she'd received when she reviewed Saucebox, another Portland restaurant with a glittery clientele and a lot of foodie buzz. People reacted like she'd stomped a kitten, her editor was besieged by complaints, and one of the owners wrote her a letter, which she reprinted in part:
"You did Saucebox a terrible disservice. You did Portland a
terrible disservice. You shamed the Willamette Week... you have set up
a terrible, destructive, no-win situation. It was your choice. I live
with the consequences, as do... the fifteen crestfallen people in the
kitchen and the 20 floor staff. Sleep well tonight, Nancy. And don't
embarrass yourself by ever coming coming [sic] to Saucebox again."
The closest I ever came to that sort of defensiveness and vituperation was when Ma Maison was closing and I stopped in to get a glimpse of the goodbye. Ma Maison had been an incredibly popular and influential restaurant with some seriously good food (Wolfgang Puck had been a chef there) and some serious pretention (the reservation number was unlisted, for starters).
Ma Maison was a big success in a town that was insecure about its dining scene, and like all things trendy and cliquish, it had its day.
Anyway, the final night was a surprisingly dispirited affair. Tables sat empty; the regulars had all moved on to the next big thing, and didn't bother to come back. When I reported that, my editor got letters from outraged customers: I must be a philistine, I must be jealous, I must've not gotten a table, it was clearly personal, etc. etc. ad infinitum.
No. Not really. Sometimes the truth is simpler, and a bad experience is just a bad experience.
I can't speak for Heidi or Nancy, but I can say: When I review books, I'd rather get a cri de coeur from an outraged author than a sad letter from someone who dropped $25 on a title based on my recommendation, and who ended up hating it because I spent my time trying to please the author rather than the reader.